refrain from disqualifying unless the dog
exceeds standard by more than half an
inch—but that doesn’t mean this signifi-
cant fault should be overlooked in making
placements.
Q:
Are small dogs preferred?
A:
Not per se. Dogs within the entire
size range should all be considered equally.
However, the standard says the dog should
be of minimal size and weight. Thus, faced
with 2 dogs of equal quality in head type,
proportion and movement, the judge
would favor a small, sinewy, light-boned
dog over a large robust dog.
Q:
Why is this breed so weird?
A:
As outlined above, this natural breed
is adapted to a lifestyle like no other. Thus
the standard reflects a range of accept-
able variation, rather than a cookie-cutter
approach of “normal” breeds that have
been fashioned more extensively—dare
we say artificially? However, dogs falling
outside that range should be faulted sig-
nificantly. Correct dogs are actually more
consistent than first glance would suggest
clothed in their diversity of size, coat and
color. The mountain breeders embraced
these odd variations for good reasons.
Q:
Why is the temperament so odd and
why should judges tolerate behavior that
would be faulted in other breeds.
A:
The breed’s wilderness lifestyle
called for a super high energy, super
alert dog capable of making split-second
decisions and sticking to them despite
dangerous terrain and obstinate sheep.
Although highly trainable and extreme-
ly attached to their humans, the work
required a dog that worked at a distance
and was able to override the directions
of the human shepherds when they felt
they knew better—and at such moments
they usually did! As a breed, they learn
a tremendous amount of their job from
other dogs, rather than via specific train-
ing by their human counterparts. The
isolation of the mountains meant that
strangers were likely up to no good and
should be challenged. This produced a
dog that tended to resent the eye and
hand of the judge.
Exhibitors should have enough control
of their dogs to prevent aggression, but
fidgeting, leaning away from the judge
and general suspicion of the judge are
expressions of the normal temperament
of the breed and thus not to be faulted
per se. Class dogs that behave perfectly at
training class may revert to these natural
tendencies in the more serious and less
familiar show situation—confounding
less experienced handlers.
Dogs that feel the judge is intimi-
dating the handler may feel the need to
take control of the situation and back
the judge off. Give the exhibitor more
space and authority will help these dogs
feel more confortable. Do not attempt
to “train” the dog or “help” the han-
dler. Encourage the owner to take con-
trol, calm their dog and indicate when
they are ready to have the dog submit to
the exam. These behaviors are less pro-
nounced among specials, who have been
habituated to shows. Do not attempt to
make friends with the dog. This will
make them more suspicious. Be matter-
of-fact and business-like.
The highly desirable alertness has lead
to a style of presentation in their home
country in which the dog is faced away
from the handler, allowing them to focus
on something of interest in the distance.
So the dogs end up standing in a haphaz-
ard manner, rather than in a line on the
mat. This is easier to achieve at outdoor
shows. Freebaiting and especially hand-
stacking are not as desirable since the
dog is not pulled together as naturally
as in the traditional presentation. But
smaller rings sometimes necessitate more
generic presentation.
Judges should not just tolerate but
embrace the traditional attitude of the
breed. After all, temperament is an ele-
ment of type.
Q:
How do I perform a breed-specific
exam?
A:
While the exhibitor is settling the
dog on the table, you can observe the
overall proportions and get a feel for the
harmony of the dog. Move to the front
and take the head in your hands to feel its
structure, Ask the exhibitor to show the
bite. Use your hand to feel the topline—
especially to evaluate the rise over the loin
as this can be affected so much by the
amount and waviness of the coat. Be quick
and business-like as you move your hands
over the dog.
In the case of a nervous dog it helps
to approach from the side, without mak-
ing eye contact. Speak pleasantly to
the exhibitor and let the dog get used
to your presence and to the handler’s
acceptance of you. Set a hand over the
dogs loin and stroke firmly a few times
to ease his trepidation. Then move to
the front and examine the head and
body structure. Then finish the exam
by asking the exhibitor to show the
bite. There is no reason to prolong the
exam. Refrain from talking to the dog.
An inexperienced dog with a traditional
temperament will not make friends with
you in just a few minutes.
Allow sufficient room for the exhibitor
to take the dog off the table. Many allow
the dog to jump down on its own.
On the down and back, you will have
a better chance to evaluate the expres-
sion than on the table. And be sure to
observe the dog from the side as this is
the moment in which the dog is most
likely to walk into its best stance. As
the dog goes around, you might want
to move to the center of the ring to see
the side gait as long as possible. At out-
door shows, you may ask the handler
to make two turns around the ring on
the individual so you can adequately
evaluate the dog as it relaxes into the
f lying trot.
Similarly, it is not unusual in a larger
class to pull two dogs out and have them
go around together a couple times. Be
sure to ask the exhibitors to have the
dogs stand naturally at some point so
you can look down the line and evaluate
their true silhouette.
282 • S
how
S
ight
M
agazine
, M
arch
2013
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