Page 270 - ShowSight - July 2019
P. 270

                Owner Handler Q & A
tell you how many times I have watched owners try to ‘play the game,’ and show the dog in the breed and in the NOHS Groups, then hire a professional handler to show the dog in the Regular Group. Either you are proud of showing your own dog, or you are not. Choose one.
• Another option would be to do NOHS as a completely separate entry, judged apart from the regular breed ring.
Do I feel that owner/handlers have an advantage because of their bond with their dogs? Most times there does need to be some sort of bond between dog and handler, whether that handler is the owner or a professional. It really depends on the dog and handler. Many owners want to bring a dog to the show and expect great things from a handler, yet never give the handler an opportunity to truly bond with the dog. Some dogs just don’t care, they will show for anyone (the ideal client dog!). Some dogs just need a few minutes of bonding, some take a couple of weeks (or longer) at the house, or on the road, with a handler to really bring out the best.
I had a client who did not want to send their dog on the road, or even show regularly, yet wanted a top ranked dog, especially when they saw the Group wins every time I showed their dog. They could not understand that the dogs in the rankings to which their were aspiring, had been with their handlers for months or years, had been show-groomed weekly and bragged about on a regular basis. These are the bonds of an owner (while not on paper), not just a handler.
Do breeder/owner/handlers have an extra added advantage when it comes to showing? This depends on the handling skills of the exhibitor. I have seen people who I thought must be a professional, but were not. They just took extreme pride in doing the very best with their own dogs. Conversely have seen people who are terrible in the ring but love exhibiting their own dogs, and look at it as strictly a hobby, not caring whether they win or not. As long as they are having fun, that is what matters, however, I really like to see them improve so they do win more, and develop the confidence and skill needed in the ring. I often lend a hand, or offer advice, to help them be better. Sometimes, this does come back to bite me, as the people that have taken my input, have sometimes ended up beating me at a later date. I guess that makes me a good teacher? Our sport needs more mentor- ing in this respect.
Where do I whelp pups and how do I determine optimal breeding time? Puppies are whelped in our bedroom. The dam is put in her whelping pen, next to the bed, about a week prior to the due date. Breeding time is determined by a combination of the sighting of vul- var swelling, first blood, vaginal smears to check cornificaton, occa- sionally progesterone testing, and the ‘radar’ detection of the males in the house. I really miss our Bichon ‘Magic’ as he could walk right by a bitch in season up until the day she was ready to be bred, at which time he made it very clear that this bitch needs to be bred! Thirty-five years of breeding experience helps too.
Determining whelp date is also a combination of things. Initially, we go with 63 days from the first breeding. Then one must consid- er the age of the dam, her eating habits, rectal temperature and her behavior. Then it is up to her. We monitor the dams 24-7 for the last week of pregnancy.
At what age do I place show or pet pups? None of our pups go to any home prior to ten to 12 weeks of age, depending on the home and maturity of the puppy. I feel that removing a puppy from it’s dam or siblings any earlier does the puppy a disservice. In those last four weeks, the puppies learn a lot of respect for other living being and getting through the initial chewing and teething phase. If they bite a littermate, they get bit back, if they need something to chew on, it is something for teething, not a piece of furniture.
Most breeds are easy to evaluate young. I start looking as soon as they are born and by seven or eight weeks have made my litter rank- ings. Many people have never evaluated their own dogs, so do not understand that you can evaluate a puppy with the same standard under which the adults are judged.
Has local legislation affected my ability to own, breed and raise good dogs? Well since anybody can breed ‘bad’ dogs, you cannot blame legislation for not being able to breed good dogs. No matter the laws, you still must follow standards to breed to improve your breed, otherwise, do not breed at all.
Local regulations did affect the number of dogs we can have, how- ever, by following the legal process, we were able to obtain an exemp- tion allowing us to own and breed, on our acreage, within the city limits. It brought us to tears when we saw that the entire city council room was full of neighbors and friends who had come to testify on our behalf. Had we not been able to obtain this variance, we would have been forced to move, or give up having the dogs—and giving them up was not an option.
Which mentor gave me the most valuable advice? Life is a con- stant learning process. If we think we have nothing left to learn, we are wrong. I have been fortunate to have many mentors, in many different areas. It is impossible to choose just one. When it comes to grooming and handling, I must thank Brenda Combs, who was a great help, when we both lived in Canada (although she was possibly a nun with a ruler, in a previous life). Grace Westerson with breed- ing Havanese, choosing great foundations, and doing the best for the breeds. Jon Rawleigh is a plethora is all information related to dogs, dog shows, and judging, and life in general. Elaine Mitchell for han- dling, grooming, and breeding. Too many more too mention here. I have taken their advise, done the best I can with it, and tried to share.
I will offer advice if it looks like the person is receptive, and will gladly help if asked. It seems that people are afraid to approach top winners, or professional handlers, for advice, and most will help, and if they refuse, don’t stop, find someone else. It is a joy for me to see someone who has taken my advice and done well with their dogs.
Advice to a newcomer:
• Do not breed just to breed.
• Do not breed your bitch just because it has obtained
a championship.
• Do not breed to a dog just because it is yours, or belongs to a
friend, and has a championship.
• Do finish the championship on your bitch.
• Do OFFA certifications for eyes, heart, hips, patellas, elbows
and any others recommended by your parent club. If she passes, proceed with the rest of the list, if she fails, re-test, then if she fails again, do not breed her.
• Do evaluate your bitch with a discriminatory eye. Know her positive and negative attributes.
• Now that you have evaluated your bitch and know what needs to be improved upon, start your search for a stud dog. He must have what you need to improve. He must have passed the OFFA certifications. He must have
a Championship.
• Know why you want to breed. Any good stud dog owner will
ask that and much more.
• Do not duplicate the negatives!
• Ask friends and other breeders who they might recommend.
For example, “I am looking for a stud dog for my bitch but need one with a nice strong rear and great movement.” This is where handlers can be a true resource. They see dogs all over the country, in all breeds, many of whom are not advertised in magazines, and you would otherwise never know exists. These dogs could become a great asset to your
breeding program.
• Assemble a support system. Have a veterinarian whom you know will be there for you and your bitch, night or day. Have
a breeder support system: someone who will answer the ques- tions you think are stupid and that won’t ask your vet (there are no stupid questions!); someone who will be there if you need help or moral support when it is whelping time. Read.
Read everything.
 264 • ShowSight Magazine, July 2019































































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