Page 207 - SHOWSIGHT - JULY 2020

They can indeed be trained by someone other than a family mem- ber, but the trainer must take the time to develop a trusting rela- tionship with the dog.
Training a Chesapeake is also never boring. A successful Chesa- peake trainer needs to be both willing and able to get creative in their approach and also be willing to spend the time to “teach, teach, teach” with positive reinforcement and lots of praise. Never expect a Chesapeake to learn simply with force. If a Chesapeake doesn’t understand what is expected, they tend to get really worried as their primary motivation is to please their people. Once they get worried, they tend to shut down. Many people erroneously misin- terpret that as the dog being stubborn. Where other retriever breeds may bolt or roll over—both behaviors that are easily understood as worry behaviors—Chesapeakes will often freeze in place. I believe this is the source for their reputation as being stubborn. Whereas Labrador Retrievers (the most popular retriever breed and, there- fore, the easiest with which to make comparisons) generally tend to be rote learners, Chesapeakes are problem solvers. So although both need to be progressed in training by following certain steps, they often learn in different ways. This is where creativity on the part of the trainer comes in handy. In certain training situations, the Chessie may see no sense in doing things the way he/she is “expect- ed” to perform. If one asks a Labrador to perform a very repetitive task, the Lab doesn’t seem to question why. A Chesapeake will look at the task and think, “I know a better, more efficient way.” Thus creating a problem for the trainer. I will use a hunting training con- cept as an illustration: Running a shoreline blind is a ridiculous concept in that both Chessies and people can immediately see that running the bank (i.e. “cheating”) is far more expedient. However, the expectations in a test are that the dog stays perhaps just a foot off shore, but stays in the water, all the way to the bird. This dem- onstrates the handler’s “control” over the dog. Control is a good thing. So, the key to properly teach a Chesapeake to “not cheat” is to show them that staying in the water is fun, but running the shoreline is not. We use lots of “happy bumpers” in training. Doing the “wrong” thing isn’t so much fun, but doing the “right” thing not only makes the trainer super happy, it is also lots of fun. Keep in mind, a Chesapeake will deep down want to please the boss. So as long as they understand what is expected, they will do their best to please even if it makes zero sense to them. Too much correction and not enough fun can cause the Chesapeake to become demoralized and, therefore, appear disinterested in their work. It’s the trainer’s job to preserve a positive attitude while insisting upon the expected behavior. In other words, “I am boss, you are not, but we can and should have fun together.”
Our breed standard includes a bitch as small as 21 inches and a male as large as a 26 inches—and everything in between. Judges should never have a size preference as long as the dog is in standard! We have had a 21.25 inch Group-Placing /Master Hunter bitch and we also have a multiple Group-Placing dog that is almost 26 inches and that is also well on his way to his Senior Hunter tile. Both were/ are correct to standard. There is a valid reason for inclusion of such size differences. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is first and foremost a hunting breed. If a hunter hunts primarily ducks out of a small pirogue in the south and needs to haul the dog into the boat after every retrieve, then the smaller dog would be practical. If a hunter hunts geese or swan in ice-covered, swift-running rivers up north and needs to have a dog that can confidently and reliably bring in large, aggressive cripples, then a larger dog would better meet his/ her needs. I will say it again—the Chesapeake is first and foremost a hunting breed. There are a variety of hunting situations and habi- tats around the US. Hunters should choose a breeding that is most likely to produce the size most practical for how the dog will be hunted. Twenty-one inches is terrific, but so is 26 inches.
As for substance, judges should keep firmly in mind that the CBR breed standard describes a strong, athletic, well-balanced dog. Dogs should neither have so much substance as to look like a Work- ing breed or so little substance as to resemble a sighthound. They should be strong and athletic enough to readily hunt in really harsh conditions and bring in cripples. To assume a Chesapeake should look like a wavy-coated version of what is often seen being shown in the Labrador ring these days is absolutely wrong. The shorter legs and extremely stocky build is not the correct build of a proper Chesapeake. A more moderate build with a proportioned length of leg allows for stamina and efficiency of movement. Neither should a Chesapeake be too thin-boned and leggy as to appear weak. Again, one should be looking for moderation, strength, proportion, and stamina.
Silhouette: Standing still—more substantial than breeds used primarily for upland work like the Curly-Coated Retriever or Flat- Coated Retriever, but more “tuck-up” and leaner and more length of leg than the typical show Labrador Retriever; far larger than a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever. Body should be neither cobby nor roached. Tail should be straight or slightly curved. In motion, a properly constructed Chesapeake should be so strong and effort- less in side gait that they appear to “float.” The topline can either be level or have a slight rise to the rear. Puppies often have a more accentuated rise. However, judges should be careful on this aspect of our breed standard as well. Too much of a rise is not correct. I once had a judge tell me that what was wrong with my dog was that her topline was not like a ski slope—that judge clearly misunder- stood our standard. A “ski-slope” topline would not be structurally sound and would likely lead to injuries if the dog was hunted hard.
Ideal expression: One of happy confidence and friendliness. Some Chessies can appear so happy and confident that almost any- one can see the underlying clown or mischievous nature. The also totally acceptable “aloof” Chesapeake will be directing 100% of his/her confidence, happiness and attention on his/her owner or handler while politely ignoring any judge or stranger.
Ideal coat: A proper coat is probably the hardest thing for most people—including judges—to understand. It would be terrific if all potential judges were required to take a water hose to different types of coats and see which were more water-resistant. What looks “pretty and really wavy” may or may not actually be a correct coat. We should not have straight coats like Labradors nor should we have soft, overly curly coats like Curly-Coated Retrievers. As our breed standard dictates: A Chesapeake coat should have a dense, wooly undercoat with a harsh, wavy outer-coat. The tendency to wave should only be on the shoulders, neck, back and loins. Face and legs should be very short and straight. Moderate feathering is allowed on the tail and the hindquarters. At this point I feel like a broken record, but the breed standard was written to prioritize those qualities which make the Chesapeake Bay Retriever first and foremost a hunting dog. The coat type is what allows our dogs to stay warm and dry in icy conditions. I have seen a dog in February literally with ice crystals clinging to the harsh outer coat while the dog herself was totally oblivious to that fact since she was warm and dry and 100% ready to keep bringing in the birds. When a Chesa- peake comes out of the water and shakes off, the coat should remain merely moist. I once had a hunt test judge remark with amazement at how dry my dog’s coat was after completing his water retrieve. I, myself, was wet up to my waist after he shook himself off, but the dog was relatively dry. The short coat is also a huge benefit in that it does not collect dirt, burrs and other field debris. My show dog friends with other breeds that also run hunt tests often spend quite a bit of time grooming their dogs after an event to keep the coats nice. I merely hose my dog off or throw a bumper in clean water, let the dog do a happy retrieve and we are good to go. >
CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER Q&A
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